Alpine climbing routes at the ballunspitze - Galtür

In September 2024, six new climbing routes were established on the north side of the Ballunspitze (2,671 m) in the Silvretta Group between Tyrol and Vorarlberg, inviting you to enjoy new alpine adventures in the region. The mountain panorama is hard to beat and the rock quality in this area of the Ballunspitze is excellent. The compact crystalline rock is reminiscent of the legendary granite climbs on the Swiss Grimsel Pass. The north side of the Ballunspitze offers ideal climbing conditions, especially on hot days. In midsummer, the sun does not reach this part of the wall until late afternoon.
 
A total of seven climbing routes, covering 580 metres of compact rock, were drilled. Most routes are well-secured with bolts, offering moderate difficulty for a safer multi-pitch climbing experience.
 
 
„Zigarren für die Chefin“           5a
„Rosen für den Boss“              5b+
„Habe di Ehre“                         5a
„Bergfreiheit“                            5c
„Hardi Gatti“                            5a
 
 
The only more challenging routes are ‘Captain Ballun’ and ‘Grosse Verschneidung’ in the left part of the wall. There, you need to be able to manage the level of difficulty, as the distances between the hooks are greater, especially in the easier lengths (2nd pitch), and depending on the weather, short passages can be wet.


Facts:
50m to 130m
Level of difficulty from 3+ to 6a
Very well secured with bolts
Equipment 12 quickdraws, 60m double rope or 80m single rope

The motorway (A12 (westbound) or A14 (eastbound)) takes you onto the Arlberg motorway (S 16). At the Pians exit, turn onto the Silvretta Bundesstraße (B 188) and follow this road into Paznaun. After approx. 30 minutes you have reached Galtür.

Birkhahnbahn valley station Galtür

With the railway station in Landeck, Paznaun is perfectly connected to the Austrian train network. From Landeck-Zams railway station you are only a short bus ride away from Paznaun. Bus 260 runs every hour from there in the direction of Galtür.